Strips of heaven

Strip malls may be a pox on the Southern California landscape. But they just happen to house some of our most beloved restaurants.

Carnival

The food far outshines the location at this popular Middle Eastern spot: soulful lentil soup; a fine fatoush salad; skewers of moist, nicely charred chicken. Don’t miss the combination appetizer plate: a generous assortment of salads and spreads topped by crisp, well-seasoned falafel -- it could easily be a meal for two.

* Appetizers $2.75 to $10.95; dishes from the broiler $10.25 to $15.95. 4356 Woodman Ave., Sherman Oaks, (818) 784-3469.

2117

This modest box of a restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating is something of a sleeper, perhaps because its fans like to keep it to themselves. Chef Hideyo Mitsuno is among the most talented in the city, turning out consistently wonderful French-Asian fare such as three-layer crab salad with avocado, chive vinaigrette and wasabi sauce.

* Appetizers $5.95 to $10.05; entrees $12.95 to $25.95. 2117 Sawtelle Blvd., West L.A., (310) 477-1617.

Tamarin

With its high ceilings and antique palace doors, this newish Indian spot has more style than most. But the real lure is chef Uma Singh’s confident cooking: golden samosas (potato and pea or spinach and cheese), smoky eggplant bharta, fragrant lamb tucked into a handmade tortilla (think Bombay burrito).

* Starters $4 to $8; entrees $8 to $17. 9162 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 777-0360.

Derek’s Bistro

You wouldn’t expect to find something this cozy and romantic (or pricey) tucked behind a dry cleaner. Candles and roses top all the tables, a fireplace warms the room, and the waiters are pros. What to order? Delicious soups like roasted cauliflower with a touch of cream, and a lovely piece of steamed wild salmon.

* Appetizers $9 to $19; main courses $24 to $36. 181 E. Glenarm St., Pasadena, (626) 799-5252.

Hirozen

Sushi is the star at this hole in the wall. But you’ll be tempted by the wonderful salads (seaweed in ginger dressing) and creative specials (crab meat chile rellenos). Go early, unless you want to be stuck outside with the rest of the hipsters, waiting for one of the 10 highly coveted tables.

* Salads $3.80 to $14.50; sushi $3.50 to $9.50. 8385 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 653-0470.